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The type of chain weaving determines its appearance, as well as the strength of the jewelry. To date, more than fifty varieties of chain knitting have been invented. Technologies are used not only in jewelry, but also in the manufacture of jewelry. And among them, the very first type of knitting was anchor technique. Anchor weaving of a gold chain is still relevant today, despite its simplicity. After all, as you know, everything ingenious is simple.
So anchor weaving appeared on its own, without connecting the imagination of jewelers. Rather, it was borrowed from maritime activities, where the anchor chain had approximately the same appearance. Since that time, the manufacturing technology of such a product has not changed at all, the links are connected in the same order, only variations on the knitting theme have appeared, sometimes the shape of the links changes.
Anchor weaving
The essence of this type of knitting is that the links are sequentially connected to each other at a perpendicular angle. Jewelry made using this technology is durable and suitable for any gender. Since anchor products have a simple look, they are often bought for children.
The links have the same dimensions, and the product itself can be made in such ways as:
The filling of the anchor chain can also be different. In one case, the jewelry will be filled with gold of the same sample, and in the other, the links will be hollow. The volume of links allows the buyer to choose fullness or hollowness. Filled links are more durable and can be easily repaired if the chain or bracelet breaks. Soldering the gap of the filled anchor chain is simple and imperceptible to outsiders. But to cope with a hollow product will not work, you will have to lose several links.
In addition, hollow products are more fragile and break more often. Do not forget that the filled anchor chain is quite heavy in weight, so it will cost more than a hollow counterpart. To reduce the price of the product, you can order or purchase a gilded jewelry. In appearance, it will be the same. It’s just that from time to time the chain will fray, and the gilding ball will have to be restored. In general, anchor chains and other products are in the middle price category.
Anchor weaving is great for those who do not know the size of the jewelry and take it as a gift. Since pulling out a few links to shorten the product is quite easy. You can also add links that are bought from a jeweler to order in a finished piece of jewelry in order to increase the length.
Do not forget that anchor weaving is suitable for any pendant or pendant. The main rule of style is that the knitting of a chain or bracelet does not distract attention from the pendant. Fantasy chains or armored weaving already attract attention in themselves and are independent chains. But anchor jewelry, like no other, is suitable for complementing with a pendant.
Anchor chain It even sometimes happens that without an additional element, anchor weaving looks unfinished and discreet. It is quite restrained, so it is suitable for supplementing with religious symbols, for example, a cross. Under anchor weaving, you can order pendants of different sizes. The main thing is that the ear of the pendant goes into the bulk chain. This will require prior testing. Even massive pendants will not look clumsy.
Even anchor knitting has its own varieties. This suggests that the type of weaving is developing and acquiring new colors. Variations often include:
Jewelers tried to give fantasy to this knitting technology. Among the resulting options stand out "Aurora" and "Hawaika". In them, round links are interconnected by several pieces at once. Therefore, the chain turns out to be as voluminous as possible, almost round. This variety is worn as an independent decoration without a pendant.
Anchor chains and bracelets are mainly made of 585 gold. This test is the most reliable, if the gold content is higher, then such a chain is deformed over time under the weight of the weight. And medium samples optimally keep their shape, their appearance does not change over time.
There are almost no defects in anchor weaving and its varieties, the links are large and can be seen with the naked eye. The fasteners of such products also do not require special attention, since any of them can withstand the weight of the jewelry.
Of course, anchor weaving appeared first of all, so it is now difficult for them to surprise and express individuality. But sometimes when choosing a chain or bracelet made of gold, you want to focus on the most practical and at the same time stylish option. For such cases, anchor weaving and its varieties are great.
When buying a chain, deciding on the metal and length is half the battle. Need to choose a weave! To solve this issue, you need to know what types are. We tell in detail in this guide about the types of chain weaving offered by Krastsvetmet.
All weaves are divided into 2 main types: anchor and shell. Plus several additional species, each of which can be expanded into a kind of "family tree". Some of them are bright and self-sufficient, not requiring combination with pendants. Others are neutral and modest, which are best revealed in partnership with the pendant.
Another type of weaving - "Gourmet Cordino"- consists of links-hearts. Such chains are more rounded and are suitable for women and children, including for wearing with a cross.
If the chain is woven not from oval links, but from diamond-shaped ones, you get a recognizable weaving "rhombus". “Rhombus” is usually double and triple: due to the special openwork of weaving and the width of the links, such chains are good to wear as an independent decoration, but they also look great in combination with a pendant. Light reflects off the links in an unusual way. The chain retains its original festive brilliance and beauty for a long time.
"Nonna" somewhat reminiscent of a "rhombus", but unlike it, the links of the "nonna" are not the same in size. Most often, “nonna” is double: when small ones are enclosed inside large rounded oval rhombuses. Krastsvetmet also produces a single variety: in this case, large links are connected to small ones one after another, creating a light and airy weave.
love/s- a chain, the links of which resemble the shape of a heart. This airy and feminine weaving is suitable for creating a romantic look. And you can also give the “love / s” chain to your lover or daughter, telling with this gesture about the ardor or immutability of feelings.
"Figaro"- a combination of long links with short ones. Figaro has several varieties - depending on the number of short links located between long ones, and vice versa. Thanks to this alternation, you can choose the most suitable character of the chain even within the same type of weaving: “figaro” can be both airy (like, for example, the 3 + 1 variety), and reminiscent of twisted chains (1 + 1), and similar to a cord with “ knocked out "links (4 or 5 short links go in a row).
"Okio di Pernice"- seemingly complex - openwork - weaving, and at the same time continuing the principle of connecting links, like a "rhombus". Other names for weaving: “panther's eye”, “eagle's eye” or “bird's eye” (translated from Italian as “partridge's eye”), which two adjacent links in the chain really look like.
"Lumakin"- armored weaving from links twisted inward and between each other. From a distance, the links look like mollusk shells, so "lyumakina" has a second name - "snail". A memorable pattern is good on its own, so it does not require a pendant, but with it it will create a winning pair.
"Tsar"- armored weaving in two rows, in which the links are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Tsar chains look both masculine and simple, so they can serve as an alternative to the other Bismarck weave beloved by men. In addition, women often choose the “king” for themselves: a wide chain contrasts with femininity and fragility.
"Singapore"- one of the most famous and popular weaves, which allows you to create a chain with a particularly bright sheen. Links of the same size in "singapore" are intertwined into a twisted chain and complemented by diamond cutting. In the Krastsvetmet chains, the coil is made frequent: such processing turns even the most modest-width decoration into a catchy accent. Despite the apparent decorativeness, Singapore chains can be worn with a pendant.
"Serpentina"- weaving from flat links, which is based on "gourmet". resembles waves or a Greek ornament. Despite the fact that the "serpentine" has a bright recognizable pattern, it can be worn with a pendant.
Among the chains of curb weaving there is a group of "cords" - smooth chains with a round or square section. In addition, the "cords" are divided into soft and hard. As a rule, single cords are a win-win for almost any pendant.
"Snake"- a chain of circular cross section, outwardly resembling snake skin. The tightly knit links in this weave are connected at an angle: thanks to this, the chain in motion really looks like it is alive. There is also a “square” “snake”, which looks more avant-garde.
"Snake"- another type of weaving, similar to a snake, but unlike the “snake”, the links here are not located diagonally, but horizontally along the axis of the chain.
"Amygdala"- smooth chain-cord with zigzag links. The density and flexibility of the "almond" allows you to weave three, four or five such chains of pigtails, which are worn as an independent decoration without a pendant.
"Voa oval"(or "double gourmet") - weaving, resembling a tightly compressed spring. Cross diagonal lines give dynamics and help to create an image of an active modern woman.
Weaving "Gourmet Oval" very similar to the "snake", but the cross section of such a chain is not round, but oval.
Another weave, similar to the "snake", but with longer links. This weaving is the basis of the chain "triple cordino", as if stretched to a twisted chain of links connected by an anchor type.
By the way, knitting "Chinese cord" also resembles the "triple cordino", but the links in it are very dense, justifying the name of this species.
"Montreal" in turn, it has a noticeable resemblance to the "triple trampoline", but it is rather a flat cord with the appropriate section. Braids are often woven from three or four "montreal" chains: such jewelry, due to their texture and thickness, is worn without a pendant.
"Parigin" unlike the "montreal", which is based on the "double gourmet", they are made from the usual single weave, so its pattern is simpler. Chains-braids are also woven from the "parijina" (they come out more airy), sometimes combining it with "montreal".
Bismarck
The most famous "male" weaving, which, however, is also suitable for women with a strong character. Tight knitting of links, each of which consists of several differently directed rings, makes Bismarck weaving one of the most reliable. "Bismarck" can be single or double. In the second case, the chain resembles a wide flat (and at the same time voluminous) ribbon, so the pendant here will be superfluous.
Perlina
Perlin weaving chains are very different from the rest. Here the links are not "rings", but "beads". Such chains can consist only of round balls worn on a jewelry warp thread (“ball” chains) or of alternating balls and barrels (“ball + barrel”). “Ball” chains, in turn, can be single or double, as well as diamond-cut, and “ball + barrel” chains are woven into braids of different thicknesses, which are best worn as an accent necklace.
"Saturn"- this is rather not weaving, but an additional technique in which links-balls are put on the main chain (in our store it is “snake”, “gourmet” or “cobra”) with a given step. From afar, the links really look like the rings of Saturn, and, as an additional decorative element, you can wear such a chain without a pendant.
"Ear"- another telling name for weaving, resembling a wheat spikelet (however, it has another popular name - “fox tail”). The “spike” can be double and triple, and its links can be located very tightly (then the chain becomes like a smooth, hard cord that cannot be bent) or vice versa can be woven into an air braid. Since the “spike” weaving chains are usually wide and textured, they can be worn as a self-sufficient decoration or with a voluminous pendant.
Since ancient times, chains made of precious metals have performed not only a decorative role, but have also been used in various rituals and rituals. In the modern world, they are often used as a gift or to show one's position in society and status. Properly selected will give its mistress sophistication and femininity, and men - rigor and self-confidence.
Chains are selected depending on where and in which company their owners will spend the near future. If these are business negotiations, then you should wear jewelry with a more strict twist, and if gatherings in a friendly circle, then choose a product with ornate fantasy weaving.
Let's figure out what all the same chains are and how they differ.
The anchor type of weaving is rightfully considered one of the most popular in the world. The reliability of this technology lies in the fact that the links are made in the form. They can have both oval and any other shape, while using perpendicular alignment. Such chains are suitable for everyone, regardless of gender and age. Anchor links often have the same length, but there are also chains with links of different lengths that alternate with each other.
Double or triple anchor weaving consists of two or three anchor chains, the links of which are soldered together. This arrangement gives the decoration volume and solidity.
Rollo (belzer). A feature of this luxurious weaving is the round shape of the links. Also for his assistance in popularizing this vitya, he is called "" in honor of the Chopard fashion house.
Curtain (Giotto) is a weaving in which the chain consists of thin links of large diameter, somewhat reminiscent of curtain rings. Jewelry with such a twist is self-sufficient and does not require the addition of pendants or charms. In different variations of such a product, the links can be single, double or triple.
The marine subtype of vitya is distinguished by a small partition inside the link itself. It adds strength to the chains when worn.
The Venetian variety is distinguished by the square shape of the links, in which some material has been added for strength at the corners. Such weaving can only be trusted who have considerable experience in their field. A connection can have from one to three elements.
Cord twist is the original subtype, which looks like a tourniquet, slightly twisted with steps in the form of waves. This effect is achieved by soldering several links through a certain number of elements.
The Singapore type of weaving has not lost its popularity for a very long time, because it tends to glow very brightly when exposed to sunlight. A feature of this twist is that its links are slightly curved. Thanks to this factor, the chains have an elegant scrolled look. Such delightful products will suit both sophisticated women and serious men.
Curb type is a general category of elegant weaves used in chain making. Products are distinguished by a special expensive look, because the elements are connected in the same plane, due to which it has high strength. Such jewelry is popular among both men and women.
(Cartier) - a type of twist in which the elements are of different sizes and alternate in a certain sequence. In the classic version, three round links are replaced by one oblong, but the options may vary depending on the wishes. Chains have an original appearance and are highly durable.
Rhombo is a very effective type, which is distinguished by the exquisite form of the constituent elements in the form of rhombuses. With such weaving, there can be up to three rhombuses in one link, which makes the product even more reliable. Such jewelry will be a worthy decoration for both men and women of any age.
Nona (Nonna) in such products with elegant craftsmanship, small links are located in the middle of larger ones and are connected in a simple pattern. The name comes from Spanish, which means "grandmother's weaving".
(snake, lace). This graceful type of vitya is one of the most popular in the whole world. This name was taken for a reason, because such chains, like noble snakes, lie on the necks of their owners and involuntarily guard their peace. Weaving is often based on curbwork, but the distance between the elements is maximally compacted and the product is shaped. In the classic version, it is made round, but you can choose oval or rectangular if you wish.
Love (Love) - a very delicate type of chains, it creates the impression of a series of hearts intertwined one after another. Such jewelry has a very neat look and is best suited for a romantic gift. A chain with such a pattern makes the features of its owner more refined and elegant.
Snail (paperclip, double helix)- an original twist, reminiscent of the corresponding stationery item. Each element of such a chain also looks like a cozy snail house.
Bismarck (Kaiser, Cardinal)- This is a chic category of products that look like an intricate pattern with a dense arrangement of elements. At first, such a twist was developed for a male audience, but over time, women also appreciated it. In order to make the weaving more refined, its links are not so tightly spaced from each other. Bismarck has several versions:
The Triple Bismarck is distinguished by the ornate weave of triple elements with a connection in several places. To facilitate such a respectable product and give it sophistication, the links are made not so massive, but this does not affect its strength.
(Boston, Byzantine, Royal) used in chains that are quite massive and full weight. This is a luxurious handmade quilting, in which elements of the same type are intertwined to create an original pattern. Products with this subtype may be in the form of a square, oval or circle.
Python (Byzantium, American, Caprice). With such a special interweaving of the original elements, the impression of a voluminous luxurious product is created. An interesting name was taken for a reason, because such a chain is very similar to the patterns on the skin of a python. Reliability and durability in wearing jewelry with such a twist can be a decisive factor when choosing jewelry.
Persian is a subspecies of Bismarck weaving, otherwise called chain mail weaving. There are two types: full and semi-Persian weaving. They differ in the density of links and their direction. In full, the elements go in two rows and are tilted in different directions. In the semi-Persian, the links are arranged in one row and are at the same angle.
A turtle is a subtype with an extraordinary twist, the peculiarity of which is that a certain number of elements (often 4) are covered with a figured metal plate. This was the reason for such an interesting name, because each plate is like a tortoise shell. This decoration looks strict and therefore fits very well with business suits.
Spike - a type of twist, in which all elements are located tightly to each other and directed in one direction. Chic products with this twist look voluminous and rather heavy. Perfectly complement the confident and status image of its owner.
A rope (harness) is a combination of elements in which tightly spaced links create the illusion of a twisted rope. Thin chains of such weaving from afar look like a continuous sparkling thread. Perfect for both solid men and elegant women.
Rose (Chamomile) is a luxurious weaving that will not leave indifferent any representative of the beautiful half of humanity. A rose is a symbol of nobility and refined taste, and a chain in the form of a row of chic buds will only emphasize these features of the owner of the product. Despite the fact that such a twist seems voluminous, it is quite light.
Bird's eye (eye of a panther or python)- This exquisite automatic weaving got its name from the resemblance to the eyes of a predator preparing to attack. Luxurious jewelry not only looks great on the neck of any size, but is also highly durable and reliable.
Perlin. Delightful jewelry with such a fantasy type of weaving will perfectly emphasize the refined features of its owner. It is an alternation of elements in the form of balls or cylinders. In some designs, links of the same type may be used, which looks like a string of fine pearls.
Spit. In this type of twist, three small chains of various types of weaving can be combined and intersected. Metals can also be used of the same type or several metals can be combined.
The stamped type is a machine-made product by stamping. The links in this twist are hooked one after another, while a loop is formed for the next part. The set of elements may differ in the shape and type of cutting or polishing.
Fantasy (gliding). So you can call all the author's original weaves that do not fit any type. In this case, various types of metals and compounds can be combined.
Without pretending to be an encyclopedic basis, we will try to systematize the information and present all the accumulated knowledge in this article. We do this, as always, thoroughly, conscientiously, and we will be glad if, in a sea of disparate information, our article will serve as a guide for you when choosing a chain or chain bracelet... Regardless of what it is about, about gold or silver, the main problem is most often, lies in the name. First of all, this will be discussed. Names (especially folk) may differ, but the essence of this does not change. At least the names that are found in this article, you can safely use to select silver weaves on our website.
Anchor weaving: The simplest and most popular weaving for chains. The links in the classic anchor chain are perpendicular to each other and have an oval shape. The good old anchor weaving will always and at all times look very profitable, both in the form and. Separately, it is worth noting the so-called. “sea anchor”: also oval links, but with a bridge in the middle.
Anchor Rollo or simply “Rollo”: A variant of the anchor weave, but with round links. It can also be called "anchor round". This type of weaving was most widely used after its active use by the Chopard fashion house. Since then, many have called this simple weaving the name of one of the trendsetters in jewelry fashion: “Chopard”, or “Shepard” (as you like). One of the folk names that we heard is not so beautiful anymore and sounds like “pea weaving”. If you hear the name “Belzer”, then know that we are also talking about the same chain (or bracelet). We remain adherents of the name “anchor rollo”.
See also: all at once / from silver.
Venetian weaving: another type of anchor links, but wider and thinner. It looks elegant and, despite the simplicity of forms, unlike the anchor classics, it almost always looks like a single whole. 
Links can be square or rectangular. Depending on the number of links woven into one block, the "Venetian" can be double, triple, etc.
Cord weaving: imagine anchor chain, in which the links enter one into the other not one at a time, but several at once, jumping over two or three links at once. In this case, the chain naturally acquires a twisted shape. Such an anchor is called a cord. Double or triple cord, depending on the density of these links.
Shell weaving or “shell”: This weaving serves as the basis for many fantasy options. Some of them are difficult to give a specific name, and some have a completely accurate name, official or folk. The most important rule that indicates that the chain belongs to this family: links that are in the same plane. 
Depending on how many links go into one another, the shell is called single, double or triple. For armored links in the shape of a rhombus, there is a second logical name. Actually, they call it that: “rhombus” (in Italian style: “rhombo”).
Nona or nonna: A shell in which small links are enclosed within large ones. Why "nonna" or "nonka" - we do not know. It turns out a combination of large and small. Therefore, the second classical name for this weave is “combined shell”. Everything is logical. Actually, the word combined is applicable to all weaves in which there are links of different shapes. For example, for figaro.
Figaro: one of the most popular forms of combined curb weave. The meaning of figaro weaving is simple: some armored links alternate with others. The ciphers “2+1”, “3+1” or “4+1”, which often accompany the name “Figaro”, indicate the number of links that replace each other.
Snake: light and hollow chain, most often round, less often oval or square. Where did the name come from, most likely, is understandable. Indeed, the chain looks almost like a real snake, i.e. snake. The principle of forming a single surface of the chain is again taken from the classic shell, which is why this weaving is also called the “round shell”. A simple and popular name: “lace” (about “lace” - also below) or “jewelry cord”, since snakes are most often not used as an independent decoration, but “work in tandem” with pendants.
See also: all at once / or all.
Popcorn: A variant of a hollow, round curb-weave with a surface that is puffed up like real popcorn. Look at the photo! The name matches the look! We are sure you will also find similarities.
Rope: “Rope” or, for thinner options, the same “lace”. Weaving, which is based on something similar to a rope. Actually, even with a photo, the name, in our opinion, also speaks for itself.
Singapura weave: also a variant of the armor, but with slightly curved links. The result is a spectacular twisting of the entire chain, which cheerfully sparkles with rays of light as it moves. Simple and effective! That is why the good old "Singapore" never goes out of fashion.
Occhio de pernice: if the Italians (that's their name again, "occhio di pernice") looked at panthers more often, as we Russians do, they would surely call this weaving exactly as many of us call it: "Panther's eye". Very beautiful, agree. And in the Italian original it turned out “Quail's eye”. Well, nothing too, but not so romantic for such a completely sophisticated version of shell weaving. The variations with animal eyes do not end there. Human fantasy sees here at least the “Eye of the Pheasant” and the “Eye of the Peacock”. We fully admit the idea that there are other options. Send us your names, we will be happy to add to this list.
Lav: hearts, or in a simple way "Shop": a variant of the shell with links resembling hearts. A romantic name that matches the appearance.
Snail or Lumakin. Who is Lumakin, you ask? Translated from Italian (and Italy is undoubtedly one of the trendsetters in the chains) “Lumakina” means just ... “snail”. This is just one of those rare cases when people in different countries can understand that they are talking about the same weaving. If for you this weaving is more like a paper clip - it's okay, many people call it that: “paper clip”. Also, double helix. It seems to be clear too.
As a matter of fact, there are a great many options in the form of which it is possible to depict the links of the chain. We list only the most common. How, in the form of what the links will be made - it does not matter. The reason why weaving can be classified either as anchor-type chains or armored chains will still be the same - the location of the links relative to each other.
Ball: chain / bracelet with links in the form of balls. Another, also popular name for this weaving is "perlina" (again from the Italian word "perlina", i.e. pearl, bead). Agree, very, very suitable for such weaving. And, characteristically, the exact name leaves no room for variation. Perhaps this weaving is unique in its own way: the appearance is separate and there are not so many options for names.
See also: all / made of silver.
: Do the descendants of the famous Otto know that in Russia a whole army of variants of one of the most popular men's chain weaving is named after him? Nevertheless, this is one of the most complex and beautiful weaves, the links of which are based on multidirectional elements that form a single whole within the link. Special chic - hand-knitted Bismarcks, because. some of the Bismarcks, in principle, do not allow them to be made automatically.
Consider the Bismarcks in more detail:
Bismarck is flat, hammered together: the thickness of the chain does not exceed half of its width. Complex links do not allow us to call this weaving armored. Well, for those to whom the foreign word “Bismarck” hurts their ears, for one of these varieties there is a second, our, native Russian name: “Brook”.
Bismarck semi-volumetric: the name speaks for itself and most often, the thickness of the chain is equal to or slightly more than the width of the link. It turns out a kind of irregular oval in cross section. If round elements are present in the links, then the name semi-volumetric can be expanded with additional characteristics: double, triple rings. Semi-volumetric Bismarck with ring-shaped elements of links also has an official jewelry name, though less common: “Springel”.
Bismarck python: He is a weaving called “caprice”, he is also “American”, he is also “Italian” or “Persian” weaving, he is also “Pharaoh” ... In general, in terms of names, everything is complicated here, but weaving is really beautiful, voluminous and perfectly playing with light. Unlike many men's Bismarcks or Bismarcks - unisex, "whim" of light silver is intended primarily for the fair half.
Bismarck royal: he is also “Bismarck imperial”, he is also “Byzantine” weaving, he is “Bizantina”, he is also “Bismarck round”, he is also “Fox tail circle”, it is also “Roman weaving”, weaving “Cardinal”. .. Perhaps, so many variants of names, as for this one, are not found anywhere else. Undoubtedly, the beautiful and voluminous interweaving of many rings gives rise to fantasies about the name. We consider everything to be fair and equally usable, except for the “Fox tail”. Still, I really want this weaving to have a more specific appearance.
Gold chains are one of the most popular pieces of jewelry for people of all ages. This laconic decoration can be an ideal base for decorative pendants or an independent element that catches the eye. The way the final version of the product looks is influenced by the types of weaving of gold chains. The more pretentious and intricate they are, the more refined the decoration will be, while it does not require additions. If the task is to choose an option for a profitable underlining of the pendant, pay attention to simple and durable designs.
Some types of jewelry chain weaving are considered strictly feminine or masculine, and some are equally suitable for everyone, even children. In addition to a purely decorative function, the weaving option affects the strength and durability of jewelry. Some of them are easier to repair, and some, once deformed, will no longer be able to serve their master. A detailed study of the nuances of creating gold chains and the characteristics of their types of weaving will help when choosing a product option at the time of purchase.
In the first case, thin light gold chains with small links are obtained. For their manufacture, ultra-thin gold wire is used, the diameter of which does not exceed 0.15 millimeters. The link making machine is so fast that it produces 600 pieces in one minute. After the links are fastened together, the finished chain is calcined in a special oven. There, under the influence of high temperature, the ends of each link are soldered, which guarantees the strength of the product. If all technological processes are performed without violating the rules, the machine knitting chain will serve its owner for many years.
In terms of quality and reliability, machine-made gold chains cannot be compared with hand-knitted products.
The beauty of the finished jewelry and its strength depend on the skill of the jeweler. The manual method of creating products is often resorted to in small private workshops. They are also used in large enterprises, since only truly exclusive goods are created manually. With hand knitting, you can create chains up to 6 grams in weight.
Stamped chains are produced using special dies. In sheet gold metal, stamps extrude the shapes of individual links. The thickness of the gold sheet does not exceed 0.3 mm. This type of production is less expensive and faster, and stamped chains look more voluminous, although their weight remains small. But in strength and durability, they are inferior to chains of machine and hand knitting.
From these thin twigs, craftsmen created exquisite jewelry in ancient Egypt. Modern technologies make it possible to make a wire up to 3 kilometers long from one gram of pure gold. Surprisingly, ancient jewelers also possessed similar skill, although they did not have our high-precision units. During archaeological excavations in Egyptian Abydos, experts found gold jewelry made of wire, the diameter of which was equal to the thickness of a human hair - no more than a third of a millimeter!
Making twigs for knitting chains is a very painstaking work that requires attention from the master. First, molten gold is poured into a mold (form for ingots), receiving a wire with a diameter of half a centimeter. It is stretched, passing through several holes, the diameter of which gradually decreases.
The thickness of the finished wire varies from 0.2 to 2 millimeters.
The choice of thickness depends on what kind of jewelry the master plans to create from it: a chain, bracelet or eyelet for earrings. The estimated weight of the future jewelry is also taken into account - for weightless feminine ones you need the thinnest wire, and for men thicker.
When the master has received a twig of the required diameter, the formation of the links of the future chain begins. The golden thread is wound onto a special base, and then removed from it - a spiral is obtained. Then, using scissors, rings of the same diameter are cut.
Next, the master manually fastens these links, taking into account the selected type of weaving, and solder each one with solder so that they hold tight. After that, the chain is clamped in special shafts and the links are made flat. The next step is to install the lock and polish the jewelry.
Gold chains are divided into three large classes, which differ in the type of knitting:
Each type has many more subspecies, because jewelry masters are trying to bring a new original idea to the classic variations. To date, experts identify more than fifty different options for basic weaving.
This option looks like an anchor chain, hence the name. This is the simplest type of weaving, used for those gold chains on which pendants are worn. It suits women, men and children equally well. Anchor weaving is quite durable, easy to repair.
In the classic variation, the gold chain consists of oval links attached to each other perpendicularly.
A more durable version of this weaving is called "sea anchor". It has a small stick-shaped web inside each link to reinforce it.
There is also a three-dimensional version of weaving, in which each link consists of two gold rings. This variety is called "double anchor". Anchor-type weaving, created from round-shaped links, is “rollo” or “chopard”. The last version of the name is unofficial, but at one time it was the Chopard fashion house that made this type of knitting recognizable all over the world.
In the Garibaldi weave, the links are also round, but they are forked in the middle. The type of mating and its name are associated with the legend of the spouses Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi, active participants in the liberation movement in Spain, who were inseparable.
The type of golden weaving "Venice" is created from flat square or rectangular links. They are sequentially connected to each other at a right angle, as is typical for all anchor-type chains. This option is also called "Italian". In one block, several links can be intertwined at once, and therefore the Italian can be double and triple.
A distinctive feature of such gold chains is that all links are polished on both sides and are attached to each other in the same plane. Outwardly these jewelry reminiscent of a small fragment of medieval chain mail. They are very strong and many people like them because they fit snugly to the surface of the skin.
Armor weaving can consist of single, double or triple links.
Some of the most popular subspecies of this knitting option:
Weaving "nonna" is distinguished by grace and femininity. Each link of such products is decorated on both sides with a diamond facet, which makes the gold jewelry shine especially brightly. Nonna knitting looks sophisticated, but at the same time one of the most durable.
A fashionable version of armored weaving is Figaro, or Cartier. The famous jewelry house Cartier is not indifferent to this type of knitting, hence the second name. A distinctive feature of "figaro" is the alternation of links of different shapes or lengths in the same sequence. For example, three small links - one large one, or one oval-shaped element - four round ones, and so on. The alternation depends on the imagination of the jeweler or the client, if we are talking about a private order.
For weaving "rhombo" is characterized by the use of diamond-shaped links. This option can be double and triple - depending on the number of gold elements used. Such jewelry is durable and versatile, for which men love them.
Weaving "lavas" is liked by a woman, because its links resemble a heart in shape. These decorations come only with single elements, as they are so intricately twisted that there is no need to cling more.
Another female version of shell weaving is a rose. Experts attribute it to the types of medium complexity of production. Although weaving looks quite voluminous, thanks to the grace it remains light and feminine. Miniature links made of the thinnest gold wire create chains on which you can hang pendants that are not too heavy. And from more voluminous "roses" they create bracelets.
Both female and male types of weaving gold chains can be a snake, which is also called a “snake” (from the English snake - a snake) or a tondo. Outwardly, it resembles a precious lace, in which all the links fit snugly together, creating the effect of snake scales. Products with weaving "snake" are suitable for wearing in the form of bracelets with pendants. Gold chains around the neck can be single or twisted, consisting of two interlaced strands.
The unisex style is spike weaving, created from links of the same size, connected so that they look in the same direction. These chains are very strong, and therefore suitable for everyday wear, including with a pendant.
