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We are glad to present to your attention ancient and modern caftans. caftan- this is a part of the men's wardrobe not only from the past, but, we hope, the future of the Russian man. The caftan can be formal and casual, fitted and free cut, the caftan can be both a “semi-caftan” and a “caftan” shirt, it will be appropriate to appear in it both at home and at a holiday.
A caftan can be decorated with openwork embroidery with a cord, stones, pearls ... it can be fastened with woven or jewelry fasteners made of filigree with bright enamel ... A caftan can be bright and festive, with a double trump collar, or it can be classic, modern and very stylish with a turn-down collar .
Yes Yes! It's modern! Why not wear a well-tailored cropped caftan made of the finest Italian wool on a silk lining with beautiful trimmings and expensive buttons in winter? After all, for centuries, Russian men have not been afraid of expensive and beautiful Russian costumes! Why should this change today? Who said that a Russian man is obliged to wear a slave noose-tie and a Western-style suit? Who decided that our Russian men's suit is not fashionable and not suitable for modern life?
Any element of the traditional Russian costume can be created according to individual patterns, changed to the modern rhythm of life, sewn from the best and most modern materials, using the latest technologies and accessories! And in terms of beauty and quality, it will surpass any Western costume, because for a Russian man there is nothing more suitable, appropriate and harmonious than a Russian costume.
Publications in the Traditions section
In a place with the Kultura.RF portal, we recall how the male appearance has changed over the course of several centuries.
Costume of Peter I. Everyday caftan, camisole. Semi-silk, woolen fabric, linen ribbed fabric, fringe. Early 18th century Photo: reenactor.ru
Male caftan. 18th century Photo: mylitta.ru
Costume of Peter I. Festive caftan, camisole, pants. Cloth, satin, cotton baize, silk thread, embroidery. Turn of the XVII - XVIII centuries. Photo: reenactor.ru
For a very long time - until the 18th century - the men's costume was not inferior to the women's in brightness and abundance of decorative details. The clothes of that era differed from modern ones, but the basis of the men's three-piece suit was already formed then. Today it is a jacket, vest and trousers, and in the 18th century - a caftan, camisole and culottes.
The caftan, as a rule, was sewn so that it tightly fitted the torso to the waist, but the floors - knee-length were wide. The cuffs on the long sleeves were also spacious. The caftan did without a collar, the outer garment was only partially fastened or not fastened at all: a camisole was visible under it. He almost completely repeated the style of the caftan, but was usually sleeveless.
Culottes - as they were called in France - short pants, the prerogative of noble and wealthy people. During the French Revolution, the rebellious commoners were called "sans-culottes", that is, "without culottes": they wore long trousers that were comfortable to work in.
Everyday men's suits were made of wool and cloth, formal suits were made of velvet, silk, and satin. The tailors tried to emphasize almost all the details of the caftan and camisole with decor - embroidery, gold and silver galloons, and the cuffs and collar of the shirt were trimmed with lace.
Under the camisole, men, like women, wore a shirt. At that time, she played a very important hygienic role, because often the rest of the clothes from expensive fabrics could not be washed. Aristocrats preferred shirts made of thin snow-white linen. Stockings were worn with short pants, white ones were also considered the most elegant.
European aristocrats paid much attention not only to clothes, but also to shoes and accessories. Shoes with high heels by modern standards were decorated with buckles. Boots were also worn, but less often: they were shoes for travel, travel and hunting. A wig was put on the head, richly sprinkled with powder. Its most popular type is a faux hairstyle with tightly curled curls on the sides and a ponytail tucked into a black bow. Keeping the wig clean and well-groomed was difficult, but still easier than if you had to style your own long hair. The costume was completed by a cocked hat, a long cloak and many decorative details: gloves, a snuffbox, a cane, rings and other jewelry. Fees for the appearance of the then dandy, or, as they were called in France, "petimeter", took a little less time than the lady.
Men's suit. Tailcoat. 18th century Photo: letopis.info
Men's suit. 18th century Photo: costumehistory.ru
Men's suit. Frock coat. Early 19th century Photo: foto-basa.com
By the end of the 18th century fashion clothes became easier and more convenient. Although France was the trendsetter in that era, in the field of men's suit this role gradually passed to England. Unlike French aristocrats, who mostly spent time at the royal court, English gentlemen lived most of the year on their country estates, and horse racing and hunting were the most popular pastimes. This required an appropriate suit. Men began to wear frock coats - robes like kaftans, but simple and loose. They were equipped with both a collar and clasps - a convenient protection from the weather.
Later, a tailcoat came into fashion - a kind of frock coat with cut floors. Over time, the floors of the tailcoat became more and more narrow, and gradually turned into tails. And on caftans, and on frock coats, and on tailcoats, they always made a cut in the back, so that it was convenient to ride. Under the tailcoat, they wore not a long camisole, but a short vest, which was already very reminiscent of a modern one. And gradually the suit for an active lifestyle turned into an elegant urban one.
The silhouette of the costume changed in general: it became more and more elongated. And with it, the ideals of male beauty also changed. A slender and fit figure was now a matter of pride.
At the end of the 18th century, men abandoned brocade and silk and began to wear only woolen and cloth robes. Luxurious trim, lace on shirts, and powdered wigs, and cocked hats are gone. Soon, short pants were also “cancelled” - they, like white stockings, were worn only on the most solemn occasions, for example, at a ball. In everyday life, they switched to long pants: first, tight-fitting pantaloons, and then the trousers we are used to today. It was a time that is sometimes called the "great male rejection" - the rejection of the colorful suit.
First in England, and then in the rest of Europe, dandyism was born - a cultural canon that included both costume and demeanor. Dandies were distinguished by restraint and exquisite conciseness of the outfit. Former luxury was replaced by minimalism. But every detail of the elegant suit - the color of the waistcoat, the fabric of the shirt, the knot of the tie - was carefully thought out. At the same time, it was supposed to look at ease, as if the selection of a suit did not cost its owner any effort. The famous Pushkin line “you can be a smart person and think about the beauty of your nails” speaks of such an important component of a dandy's life as self-care. Well-groomed, perfectly shaved, in an immaculately snow-white shirt, slender - this is the image that men of the first quarter of the 19th century aspired to.
In the 19th century, the men's suit changed slowly, it was the details that played an important role in it. The tailcoat has become the most important piece of clothing, appropriate in any situation. Over time, the width of the lapels, the line of the shoulder and the length of the tails changed, but in general it remained the same. In addition to frock coats and tailcoats, men began to wear business cards - a cross between these two attires. The top hat became the most fashionable headdress for more than half a century. And the funny word "shapoklyak", familiar to many since childhood, actually means a special cylinder with a hidden spring. The high headdress could be folded down so that it would not interfere when a man entered the premises. Vests remained the only relatively bright item in the wardrobe. Sewn from velvet or silk fabrics, including patterned ones, they contrasted with dark tailcoats and light trousers. There were an incredible number of ways to tie a tie, and one or the other was in fashion.
Men's suit. 2nd floor 19th century Photo: mir-kostuma.com
Men's suit. 2nd floor 19th century Photo: mir-kostuma.com
By the 1840s, the tailcoat began to move into the category of a formal, evening suit, and a more comfortable frock coat became everyday wear. Ten years later, the jacket began to supplant him. Gradually, the functionality of clothing took up and a men's suit was formed, similar to the modern one. The “hero of time” was a business man, for whom convenience was the main thing. From the middle of the 19th century, elegant fabrics completely disappeared from the men's suit. Even waistcoats have now become restrained, they were usually sewn to match the color of trousers. A three-piece suit appeared, in which all three items are sewn from the same material. Shirt collars, once tall and uncomfortable, have shrunk, and ties that were once cravats have become narrow strips of cloth. Outerwear has also changed: instead of voluminous capes and raincoats, coats have come into fashion. Cylinders were still worn, but with the advent of the bowler hat - a hat with a rounded, very rigid crown - they became an accessory exclusively for evening dress. In a word, that system of everyday and evening costume has developed, which exists to this day.
Over time, clothing became more and more loose, because, among other things, sports began to influence it. Men began to wear cropped trousers, blazers, jackets, tweed jackets, soft castor hats and straw boaters. Tuxedo appeared as a kind of evening suit.
Having formed, the basic men's wardrobe changed slowly: the classic suit became quite comfortable, its cut masked figure flaws well. In addition, it was almost universal - both modest officials and aristocrats could wear the suit.
Ready-to-wear factories have made trendy contemporary clothing more accessible and common. Therefore, the dandies of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries had to think over the details of their costume even more carefully than petimeters and dandies. There were many nuances of what and in what situation it is appropriate to wear. There were even special articles and publications with instructions like "Handbook of a graceful man." However, even at the beginning of the 20th century, it was not enough to read it and order a good wardrobe to the tailor - one could not do without talent and taste or position in society.
And although it seems that much has changed since then, a modern man, if he only agrees to take a serious look at fashion, can find a lot in common between himself and the fashionistas of the past.
The history of men's costume: from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century
Week of men's fashion and I think: but, my friends, we are slowly but surely entering the rococo era! Moreover, if designers have been offering women dressing in the hippie-chic style for several years in a row, then they dress men in lace and silk embroidered with intricate patterns a la chinoiserie.
To begin with, let's remember what a man looked like in Rococo times.
It is hard to imagine a more decorative time than this era: intricate curves of furniture, intricately painted wall panels, everything and everyone is covered with decor: flower garlands, plump cupids, outlandish birds fluttering among the graceful branches of flowering shrubs ... The man also became part of this magical scenery: his costume was strewn with sequins and embroidery, wigs - with rice powder, his face was painted with blush.
Something like this))
1745 Meissen Porcelain
sofa upholstery
All these flowers continued to bloom and weave into wreaths and garlands on men's clothing. We will not deny ourselves the pleasure of walking around this blooming garden!
camisole and vest embroidery
Court dress, France 1774–93.
"Sir Whistler Webster, 2nd Bt", circle of Thomas Hudson, ca. 1760; English Heritage, Battle Abbey
Shot from the film "Barry Lyndon". If you haven't seen this movie, I highly recommend it! Firstly, it is recognized as a masterpiece of cinematography, and secondly, Milena Canonero was the costume designer there. Thirdly, I wrote a post about him))
Coat and waistcoat (c. 1775) (detail) National Gallery of Victoria
Photo from the show of the latest Moschino men's collection.
Camisole and waistcoat 18th century
Detail pocket flap, court coat, France or Spain, 1790s with later alterations.
Garlands on the door, garlands on the vest...
Waistcoat 1760-70 France Metropolitan Museumhttp://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/157726?=&imgno=1&tabname=label
garlands on the walls...
1760-1770
Meissen porcelain teapot with delicate flowers woven into garlands.
The clothes of the nobility of that time were expensive, they showed the wealth of the owner, his status and taste.
No one then considered shades of pink and purple feminine in a men's suit. Dark colors and discreet cut came into fashion only in the 19th century. Thanks Brummell.
Thomas Gainsborough. Portrait of Joshua Grigby
frame from the film "Dangerous Liaisons"
Even if the men's suit was not pink-lilac, it was still, preferably, pastel colors, like the color scheme of the then fashionable paintings by Watteau and Boucher
or figurines of Meissen porcelain
MONSIEUR AIEUL ANDRE DE LA GUERCH, 1765, Jean Voille, Paris 1744-1796, Sotheby's
Frame from the movie "Barry Lyndon"
Louis Vuitton 2016
If the camisole was made of plain fabric, the vest was necessarily decorated with embroidery. Floral motifs were especially popular.
Portrait of Charles-Claude de Flahaut de la Billarderie, Comte d "Angiviller (1730-1809), c.1779 seated three-quarter-length Wearing the Cross of the Order of Saints Maurice and Lazare, and the Cross of the Order of Saint Louis, with his Right Hand Resting on Plans of the Galerie du Louvre Joseph Siffred Duplessis
Meissen porcelain
Meissen porcelain 18th century
And embroidery from the camisole, with which the vest was paired. Note that the flowers are embroidered the same.http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/101623?img=3&imgno=3&tabname=related-objects
Waistcoat from the court costume 1774-93. Carnations and large flowers (I won’t say which ones) are repeated in the camisole embroidery.
You probably noticed that the buttons on these vests and camisoles are also unusual.
They were either embroidered (sometimes with sequins), or made of porcelain and painted by hand, or inlaid with rhinestones.
Porcelain - 18th Century - Hand Paint
Embroidered button from an 18th century camisole
It's funny that vests and camisoles were first embroidered on the coupon, and then it was given to the tailor. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York) website says that due to the limited width of the loom in the 18th century, the economical use of narrow canvases led to the fact that the left pocket was usually embroidered separately from the left front.
Embroidered vest coupon 1760–75
Young ladies embroidering a camisole and vest
Britain and France ratified the Eden Treaty in 1786. Date made: circa 1786 Credit: National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London
A great idea is to make a picture out of the coupon.
There were special catalogs of embroideries. And you could also buy ready-made embroidered coupons. By the way, there is an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Elaborate Embroidery Fabrics for Menswear before 1815 http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2015/elaborate-embroidery
Embroidered coupon for a men's suit, 1780. France. Silk embroidery on silk. Metropolitan Museum. http://www.metmuseum.org/about-the-museum/now-at-the-met/2015/elaborate-embroidery
Drawings for embroidery. MAN "S WAISTCOAT, 1780–90 https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/objects/18148341/
Embroidery design, Jean Pillement, V&A Search the Collections http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O735102/embroidery-design-jean-pillement/
Many of you probably know that the 18th century was famous for its love of everything Chinese. It all started with porcelain, then continued in the design of furniture, tapestries, paintings ... The French came up with the term "chinoiserie" for this trend, i.e. "in Chinese". Chinese silks and embroidery motifs, pagoda sleeves, mule shoes and cone-shaped straw hats came into fashion.
Wallpaper, locker - all "chinoiserie"
Scenes from Chinese life...
Waistcoat, 1780–95, France Brown silk waistcoat with a standing collar and welt pockets. Embroidered on center front and lower edges with floral motifs and a chinoiserie design of Chinese figures in dragon boats.
Tom Brown - 2016. His collection has a more "Japanese" reference, but this does not spoil the overall picture))
Butterflies fluttering among fragrant peonies and roses...
Camisole - men's clothing, with a fitted cut, just above the knees. In Russia, it was put on under Peter I, when, by decree of the emperor, Russian nobles were required to wear European dress.
The camisole was worn paired with a caftan. These two pieces of clothing are often confused, usually referring to the caftan as a camisole, although this is not at all the case. First, a shirt was put on, then a camisole, and over the camisole - a caftan. Therefore, the camisole was a little shorter and much narrower than the caftan. Initially, it was with long and narrow sleeves, but gradually the sleeves disappeared, and the camisole was transformed into a vest.
The caftan was knee-length, also narrow at the waist, with slits in the center of the back and in the side seams, which increased the width of the shelves and created convenience in movement, especially when riding. The sleeves had wide lapels, decorated with loops, buttons, and embroidery. The caftan was always worn unbuttoned, so that the front of the camisole was visible, which for this reason was richly decorated.
Camisoles were made of expensive luxurious fabric, decorated with lace, embroidery, chenille (fluffy lace) or other trim. However, the invisible parts of the camisole - the sleeves and the back - were made of less expensive fabric. This whole outfit, in addition to stockings and shoes with buckles and bows, was complemented by a lace jabot and cuffs.
However, camisoles were worn not only by men of the 17th - 18th centuries, they have long been found in women's national costumes of the peoples of Asia. The skill of the people, beauty and perfection were embodied in the costumes of Kazakh, Tatar and Bashkir women.
Costumes can tell us a lot about a person, about his character, social status, age and aesthetic tastes. It is in them that the camisole is harmoniously combined with the dress. Camisoles were sewn from velvet, brocade and other bright and expensive fabrics. Festive camisoles were decorated with rich embroidery with gold and silver threads, fur and even coins.
And what does a camisole look like in modern fashion? Basically we meet with the vest, which is its descendant. However, even today, famous designers, recalling the bright past of camisoles and caftans, have embodied their ideas in new collections, where these two types of clothing are trying to make up for lost time. How successful it is, you be the judge.
A camisole is an element of a costume, more often a man's, but it also happens in national costumes for women. It has some characteristic details - a certain length, the presence of frequent buttons, a narrow cut at the waist, which implies its mandatory wearing under outerwear, and the absence of sleeves. And if they are present, then only in the winter version of clothing.
We can safely say that the camisole is the prototype of the vest. He was always worn on the undershirt, thus giving formality and severity to the suit.
Very often, the camisole together with the caftan formed a single whole, that is, a suit in which the camisole was always shorter than the caftan. In this case, the pair were made of the same material, sheathed with the same braids, silver galloons or canvas. But the caftan, unlike the camisole, could be of any cut and style - trapezoidal, straight-backed, with or without wedges.
If the caftan was sewn fitted, repeating the outlines of the figure, then it was called justokor (exactly on the body). But a camisole is a detail of a suit that has always been sewn to the waist. Maybe it would have disappeared from women's ruffled collars, but interest in them arose thanks to the cinema, which mercilessly exploits the time period when camisoles were an integral part of the men's suit. And duels on swords were performed in camisoles or shirts (depending on what looks more spectacular main character). The modern viewer can appreciate the beauty and sophistication of medieval attire, especially since the male camisole, made of brocade or velvet, embroidered, for example, with a cantle (thin wires of silver and gold), looked very impressive.
Of course, the camisole, along with a lot of things, came to us in Russia through a cut through window to Europe.
The most ardent pro-Western instilled - where by personal example, where by force - love for European fashion. And already in Russia, the camisole acquired national features, mainly in decoration, as it began to be embroidered with church gold embroidery. And then he stepped further, beyond the Urals, and here he fell in love with the indigenous population so much that he harmoniously became part of the national costume among some nationalities. It can be stated that the camisole is a detail of national, often both male and female costumes of Tatars, Kazakhs, Uzbeks, Bashkirs, Georgians and some others.
Appearing in Russia at the beginning of the 18th century, the camisole became an integral part of the men's suit. It was of two types - with sleeves and without them. He was necessarily worn under a swinging caftan. Depending on the fashion, it could be with a blind fastener under the throat. At the end of the 18th century, this piece of clothing went out of fashion. Since the camisole belonged to the reign of Catherine the Great, and the arts flourished at that time, many portraits of dignitaries, wealthy people, captured by artists, remained. In the minds of subsequent generations, the camisole and wig became an integral part and symbol of the reign of Peter I, and the brilliant Catherine's century. The camisole in these times was an obligatory component of the uniform of the Russian army, police and civilian departments.
The very word "camisole" goes back to ancient times, when in ancient Rome a shirt was called a kamiziya. But as a piece of clothing, he appeared on the fashionable horizon of France only in the 17th century. And, although in the 16th century there was a certain kind of it - a tunic, they were connected only by a cut to the waist.
The tunic was much shorter, with a stand-up collar, double sleeves (a pair just dangled unnecessarily) and overhead bolsters on top of the armhole, which, according to the couturier, gave the necessary masculinity. It can be concluded that the most characteristic feature of the camisole is the obligatory cut to the waist. This piece of clothing is so good that even now a camisole is appropriate for some gala evening, to say nothing of carnivals and balls.
The camisole, the pattern of which is attached, is absolutely not difficult to perform. Moreover, the step-by-step cut of camisoles for every taste and tailoring is shown in more than detail. In addition, there are many tips for finishing the finished product, it is indicated how you can make a unique thing out of store fittings. And if you choose the classic version without sleeves, then making a camisole with your own hands is not at all difficult. Moreover, the fittings are now so good and varied that the sheathing of the camisole with ready-made braid and galloons will look no less impressive than the medieval one.
